Northern Ireland

Northern Ireland

The Northern Irish landscape offers an eclectic mix of dramatic shoreline, rugged mountaintops and expansive loughs. Walkers are spoilt for choice, with so many contrasting landscapes available to explore within comfortable driving distance. Coastal locations, such as the Causeway Coast, offer a wide range of beach and clifftop walks, as well as opportunities to explore some of the historic lighthouses dotted along the shore. In the spring and summertime, the coast comes alive with wildflowers, the coconut scent of gorse and the inimitable cry of seabirds such as the puffin colony which flocks to Rathlin Island in mid to late May.

For seasoned hikers, the rugged Mourne Mountains offer a particular attraction. The peaks of Slieve Donard and Binnian loom heavy on the County Down skyline, etched by the snaking Mourne Wall – a 30.5km drystone wall which covers seven of the tallest peaks in the Mournes. Here, as in most parts of Northern Ireland, the weather can change extremely quickly, and often multiple times in a single day. Walkers must be well equipped for rain, wind and even snow into late spring. Many of the routes here are not waymarked and require forging a path through bogland or heather towards a feature in the landscape. It is, therefore, imperative to bring an OS Map and a compass, and to know how to use them in order to aid safe passage. Northern Ireland offers plenty of gentler and well-signposted trails too – which are ideal for families and less experienced walkers. For example, the vast forest trails around Gortin Park in the Sperrins and the boardwalk to Cuilcagh Mountain in the Lower Lough Erne area provide good route guidance. Maps and GPS are still recommended as a precaution.

History

Northern Ireland is made up of six counties, which together form part of the province of Ulster: Antrim, Armagh, Down, Fermanagh, Derry/Londonderry and Tyrone. The county names and boundaries date back to the 16th century, but the island of Ireland was populated and growing well before then.

The first settlers were seafarers, engaged in fishing, hunting and gathering. Indeed, no point in Northern Ireland is more than 53km from the sea. Around 4500bc, livestock farming and pottery were significant trades, making way for metalwork some 2000 years later. The area was governed by clan rule before being split into three kingdoms – Oriel, Aileach and Ulaid – in the 4th and 5th centuries, following attacks from the kingdom of Meath. Clans in eastern Ulster (Ulaid) were invaded in the late 12th century by the Norman John de Courcy. Signs of the invasion are still visible today in the numerous motte and baileys that his army built, for example at Belvoir Park Forest. Dundrum Castle in County Down and Carrickfergus Castle in County Antrim bear testimony to his 25-year reign, which ended in defeat in 1205.Later, in the 17th century, the plantation of Ulster was prompted by King James I, granting land belonging to the O’Neills and O’Donnells to English and Scottish settlers. This period led to the formation of some of the major towns and cities in Northern Ireland today, including Belfast and Derry/Londonderry.

Trade with England and Scotland flourished in the 18th and 19th centuries. The development of the Newry Canal, turnpike roads and numerous harbours facilitated the export of goods such as salt beef, butter, pork and cheese. Raw materials were also mined and exported, with remnants of chalk and limestone mines shaping the landscape today, such as Gortin Quarry by Carnlough, and Larrybane – both on the Antrim Coast. Linen mills sprung up during this time, benefiting from waterways in and around the Lagan Valley. Indeed, during the 18th century, Belfast’s two mills produced half of all linen on the island of Ireland.

Belfast later became an international leader in shipping, with dockers working and living in Sailortown. The Titanic Quarter tells the story of this illustrious time in Belfast’s history, centred around the construction of the HMS Titanic in the early 20th century.

Natural History

County Fermanagh boasts a UNESCO Global Geopark. Sites such as the enchanting Cladagh Glen, home to the famous limestone ‘Marble Arch’, are scientifically important remnants of the carboniferous period. Limestone rocks containing fossils speak of an era when the island of Ireland was near to the equator and submerged in tropical waters.

The Cliffs O’Braade at Lough Achork tell of a slightly later development in this period, as sea levels began to fall and evolve into a fluvial system. Here, fossilised plants are visible in the sandstone, contributing to its status as an Area of Special Scientific Interest.On the Antrim Coast, the white chalk cliffs at Larrybane Head date back to the cretaceous period, 145 to 166 million years ago. Warm and shallow seas provided the ideal conditions for tiny algae coccolithophores to flourish, whose shells were deposited to form chalk. Larrybane Quay was a major site for chalk and limestone extraction in the 19th century, for use in bricks and the potteries.

A little way along the coast, the Giant’s Causeway, a stunning cluster of 40,000 hexagonal basalt columns, was the result of paleogene and neogene times. Basalt magma spewed out of a volcanic fissure before cooling and fracturing into their distinctive shape. Indeed, the whole region saw volcanic eruptions. Another prominent example of this is Slemish near Ballymena, which stands out against the flat bogland surrounding it.It was around the same period, some 56 million years ago, that the Mourne Mountains in County Down were formed. The foundation of the area was originally made from shale remnants of an ancient seabed. The giant sections of shale sank into the earth, providing space for granite magma to burst up and take its place. The stacked granite tors on Slieve Binnian’s summit are perhaps the most recognisable example of this activity.

The quaternary period continued to render and hone the Mourne Mountains, forming the deep U-shaped valleys such as the Annalong Valley. Evidence of this period can be found in the moraines scattered along the valley; these sediments were transported by large glaciers that carved their way through the area, sculpting the landscape. One of the most prominent erratics is Cloughmore, a 30-ton granite stone deposited 300m above Carlingford Lough, to the south of the Mournes. It is thought to have journeyed there from Scotland.

Over the past 10,000 years, as conditions warmed and ice melted, plants and forests began to thrive across the island of Ireland. Historically, the island was densely populated with forest; Brehon laws enforcing the protection of trees served to preserve ancient oaks, Scots pine, yews and other trees. Due to extensive deforestation in the 18th and 19th centuries, only about eight percent of Northern Ireland is now covered in forest. Some of the most enchanting of these forests include Tollymore in the Mournes and Lough Navar in County Fermanagh. For city-dwellers, Belvoir Park Forest near Belfast offers a taste of the ancient woodland that once carpeted the island.

Public Transport

Public transport in Northern Ireland is variable, so plan ahead and be aware of journey times and alternative routes should services be unavailable. Bus and rail services can be used to access routes in and around Belfast, as well as a means of accessing major towns. There are, for example, regular trains between Derry/Londonderry and Belfast.
For walkers in the Sperrins, a Translink ‘Sperrins Rambler’ bus service runs between Omagh and Magherafelt through the heart of the mountain range, stopping at key points along the way. Walkers are advised to check transport timetables.

The Rathlin Island walks are accessible via a regular ferry running from Ballycastle. The ferry is generally for foot passengers only, and visitors are encouraged to leave their cars at the nearby car park to the ferry port. Be sure to check ferry times and book in advance; be aware that adverse weather conditions can lead to cancellation of crossings.

Places of Interest

Altacorry Head
Altnaheglish
Annalong Valley
Banagher Glen
Ballintoy
Bangor
Belfast Castle
Belvoir Park Forest
Ben Crom
Binevenagh Cliffs
Black Mountain
Blackslee
Bloody Bridge
Bull Point
Bushmills
Carnlough
Carrick-a-Rede
Castle Caldwell
Castlewellan
Causeway Head
Cave Hill
Cladagh Glen
Cliffs O’Braade
Cloughmore
Cock Mountain
Cove Mountain
Cranny Falls
Crawfordsburn
Cuilcagh Mountain
Derry Walls, The
Devil’s Coachroad, The
Divis
Doan
Dundrum Bay
Eagle Mountain
Giant’s Causeway
Glenariff Glen
Gortin Glen Forest Park
Hamilton’s Seat
Hare’s Gap
Hen Mountain
Holywood
Iniscarn Forest
Killough
Lagan, River
Lough Achork
Lough Navar Forest
McArt’s Fort
Marble Arch Caves
Murlough Beach
Newcastle
Pierce’s Castle
Pigeon Rock Mountain
Portballintrae
Rathlin Island
Robber’s Table, The
Roonivoolin
Rossergole
Rue Point
Runkerry Head
St John’s Point
Sawel Mountain
Silent Valley
Slemish Mountain
Slieve Bearnagh
Slieve Binnian
Slieve Commedagh
Slieve Donard
Slieve Gallion
Slieve Gullion
Slieve Meelbeg
Slievenaglogh
Slievenaslat
Titanic Quarter
Tollymore Forest Park
White Park Bay