Kintyre and South Argyll

Kintyre and South Argyll

South Argyll can truly be described as Scotland’s hidden gem. Close enough to the Central Belt that parts of it are easily accessible by ferry, yet with a remoteness that gives the area a character all of its own, South Argyll is rich in history and prehistory. Several of Scotland's long-distance walking trails cross the area, including the Kintyre Way, the Loch Lomond and Cowal Way and the West Island Way. Parts of all of these are used in the walks in the chapters that follow.

History

The area that is now Argyll was known in Old Gaelic as Airer Goidel, meaning ‘Coast of the Gaels’. This collection of 40 routes from throughout South Argyll explores an area which is nearly all coastal, whether on the peninsulas of Cowal or Kintyre, or on the Isles of Bute or Gigha.

Before it was Airer Goidel, the area that is now Argyll was Dal Riata, or Dalriada, a Gaelic kingdom which also included parts of the northeastern corner of Ireland. Its capital was at the hillfort of Dunadd, in Kilmartin Glen. The kingdom was formed through the arrival of the Scotti from Ulster in around 500ad. The Irish missionary Columba arrived in Kintyre in 563, hoping to spread Celtic Christianity among the pagan Picts, whose kingdom bordered on Dalriada.

In 843, the Dalriadan king Kenneth MacAlpin conquered the Picts, assimilating them into his kingdom and creating the Kingdom of Alba, now Scotland. But there was another enemy to defeat. In the late 8th century, Vikings had arrived in South Argyll from modern-day Norway. Though the first wave of Norsemen arrived as raiding parties, over time many chose to settle in Scotland and a hybrid Norse-Gaelic culture began to emerge. This culminated in the creation of the Lordship of the Isles under Somerled. Norse descendent Suibhe, Lord of Knapdale, built Castle Sween, while his son, Dugald, held Skipness Castle in 1261. Meanwhile the Stewarts built Rothesay Castle on Bute. Further castles were built at Tarbert and Dunaverty. The location of these castles emphasises that, in the days when boat was the fastest and safest method of travel, the sea was not a barrier but a highway.

Far later, the area around the Clyde estuary became known as the Glaswegian Riviera. As steamboats were introduced, towns such as Dunoon and Rothesay grew on the profits from Glasgow’s working class heading ‘doon the watter’ in the summer, while middle-class villas sprung up at Tighnabruaich and at Kilchattan Bay on Bute.

The natural environment

The landscape is dominated by low heather-clad hills, gentle coastline and sandy beaches. Sea lochs stretch their way into Knapdale and around Cowal, while the great estuary of the Clyde surrounds the Isle of Bute and laps at the eastern shores of Kintyre before spilling out into the Atlantic.
The Gulf Stream, a current of warm seawater which flows from the Gulf of Mexico to Scotland's west coast, brings milder weather to South Argyll than more easterly parts of Scotland – indeed, palm trees can be found growing across the region. The mild Atlantic climate creates an unusual and diverse range of habitats for wildlife, attracting thousands of visiting wildfowl in winter. It is also a stronghold for rare and endangered native birds such as peregrine falcon.

Transport

There are regular bus services to the start of many of the walks in this guide, often with a connecting bus to Glasgow. Be aware that bus routes may have changed since the time of writing and so these should be checked before commencing your walk if you are relying upon it (travelinescotland.com). Although these routes might seem remote, many can be accessed from the Central Belt via ferry. Check timetables at calmac.co.uk.

Regular bus services run to all of the ferry ports. Ferries run between Colintraive in Cowal and Rhubodach on the Isle of Bute, between Portavadie in Cowal and Tarbert in Kintyre, and between Tayinloan in Kintyre and the Isle of Gigha.
Ferries to Dunoon and to the Isle of Bute can be accessed by train from Glasgow via the stations at Gourock and Wemyss Bay. The summer ferry service to Campbeltown can be accessed by train via the station at Ardrossan.
All of these ferries carry vehicles, and can save you the long but picturesque drive by Loch Lomond and Arrochar.

How to use this guide

This guide contains 40 coastal, low-level and hill walks. All are on obvious paths or tracks and are generally waymarked or are easy to follow. Nevertheless, before heading out for your walk, you should ask yourself three questions: Do you have the right gear? Do you know what the weather will be like? Do you have the knowledge and skills for the day?

You should not wholly rely on a smartphone to find your way. Using GPS can quickly drain your phone's battery, as can cold weather. A phone signal might not always be available. Always carry the relevant map and compass and learn how to use them. The relevant maps (OS Explorer 356, 357, 358, 362 and OL37) are listed within the text.
Accidents can happen anywhere. Always let someone know where you are going and when you expect to return. It’s also a good idea to carry some spare provisions, a first aid kit, a whistle and a head torch in addition to your smartphone (with a back-up USB power pack) as a means of calling for help.

Always check the weather and dress appropriately. Wear good-quality walking boots, and carry warm, waterproof clothing, even if you don’t think you’ll need it. Walking poles are always handy.
In summer, culicoides impunctatus, also known as the West Coast midgie, can be a serious annoyance. Wearing light-coloured clothing with long sleeves and trouser legs and using an insect repellent and even a head net can help. Ticks can be a more dangerous issue for walkers. In addition to the above measures, it can be worth tucking trousers into socks if walking in an area where ticks are prevalent and avoiding long grasses and undergrowth if possible. Check exposed skin at regular intervals and remove any ticks with a tick removal tool or tweezers. On coastal routes, rocks can be slippery and waves can easily sweep you into the water. Check the tides before setting out.
Read through your route carefully, and be sure that it is within the capabilities of everyone in your group.

Access

The Land Reform (Scotland) Act of 2003 gives members of the public a right to access most Scottish land and inland waters for recreation, and landowners have a responsibility not to unreasonably prevent or deter access. However, key to the Act is that members of the public exercise their rights responsibly, as laid out in the Scottish Outdoor Access Code (outdooraccess-scotland.scot). Take your litter home with you and pick up after your dog. Respect the environment and private property, and do not damage fences and crops. Close all gates behind you. Dogs should be kept under strict control, particularly in the spring and early summer when they could disturb ground-nesting birds. Do not enter a field with your dog if there are lambs, calves or other young farm animals. If you enter a field where there are animals, keep your dog on a short lead as far away from the animals as possible. If cattle become aggressive, keep calm, let your dog go, and take the shortest, safest route out of the field.

Places of Interest

Achamore Gardens
Ardminish
Ardrishaig
Ardyne
Arichonan
Auchavoulin Estate
Ballimore Estate
Balnakailly
Barone Hill
Bealach a’ Chaisteil
Beinn Ghuilean
Bishop’s Glen
Bodach, The
Cailleach, The
Cairn Bàn
Campbeltown
Campbeltown Loch
Canada Hill
Caol Scotnish
Carradale
Castle Toward
Creag Bhàn
Creag Rubha Bhàin
Crinan Canal
Cruach an t-Sorchain
Cruach Breacain
Crucifixion Cave, The
Cuddyport Beach
Davaar Island
Deer Hill
Dunaverty Rock
Dunoon
Dùn a’ Choin Duibh
Dùn Mor
Dùn Skeig
East Loch Tarbert
Ettrick Bay
Gauldrons, The
Glean a’ Gealbhan
Glenan Bay
Glenramskill
Keil Caves
Kilbrannan Sound
Kilchattan Bay
Kintyre Way, The
Knapdale Forest
Laggan, The
Loch Barnluasgan
Loch Caolisport
Loch Coille-Bharr
Loch Fyne
Loch Gilp
Loch Linne
Loch Sween
Machrihanish
Mull of Kintyre, The
Otter Ferry
Pollphail
Port Ban
Port Bannatyne
Portavadie
Rothesay
Saddell Bay
St Blane’s Church
St Columba’s Cave
Skipness
Southend
Steallair Dubh, The
Stillaig
Stravanan Bay
Tarbert
Taynish
Tighnabruaich
Torinturk Forest
Tramway Trail, The
West Island Way
West Loch Tarbert
White Shore, The